Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Need a recommendation...

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #21
    Originally posted by Allstar7 View Post
    did you get this sorted out?
    Yep. Ended up buying a set of 4 ohm Alpines front and rear. Getting the fronts put in today, the rears will wait until the weekend.

    Thanks, everyone, for your input. It was a big help

    Comment


    • #22
      We must also keep in mind the the resistance (Ohms) is not a constant and is changing based on factors such as volume and content. If you send an amp below its lowest resistance factor, in this case 2ohms, it will clip due to lack of power, cut off and then cut back on once the resistance is back in range etc. The cause the amp to heat up, which in turn the amp then sends dirty power to the speaker. All of this causes damage to the speaker. you have to keep in mind that the speaker is the last ni the signal path, anything that happen in the line the speakers gets the brunt of, like they say $#!t rolls down hill.

      In this case we have an amp the on its best day under perfect conditions does 90w RMS (never use peak power for audio selection) vs a speaker that is rated for 90w RMS. in this senario you have the amp trying to satisfy a power whore of a speaker. Commecial amps such as these are always over rated on their power as the requirement is for the prototype to do it once and then they will mass produce it based on they way they built the prototype. Alot of the amps out there are over rated on power, some (cheater amps) under rate the power. However, none of the manufacturers disclose the slope at which power then becomes distorted. This is why you always use an amp that is rated higher than the speaker being put to it. Here i would use an amp that is 125w rms to ensure that the speaker sees nothing but clean power.

      Comment


      • #23
        Tony, the 60.9cs voice coils had a 2ohm resistance. they were designed so that the use of factory wiring at 18-24 guage would provide a 4ohm load (basically that such small wiring provides a higher resistance factor). however, when you upgrade the wiring you decrease the resistance facor and get closer to the coil resistance of 2 ohms, which is the minimum resistance of that amplifier.

        Car audio is truly NOT plug & play, but any shiop will put what ever you want into your car.

        Comment


        • #24
          Originally posted by tonybell_57 View Post
          Yep. Ended up buying a set of 4 ohm Alpines front and rear. Getting the fronts put in today, the rears will wait until the weekend.

          Thanks, everyone, for your input. It was a big help
          Congrats on the new speakers!

          Now make sure that you (at a minimum) use your high pass filter (HPF) in your HU and do not give them a signal below 80hz. Other wise you will be replacing them again.

          I would stongly suggest installing a doorkit (not dynatmat...Hush mat or Ballistic). it will make your door an enclosure and vastly improve the performance of your audio system. the difference is night & day.

          Comment


          • #25
            Originally posted by Allstar7 View Post
            I have never had or heard of a problem with running a speaker that is at the minimum ohm load. As long as you don't go below that I wouldn't worry. Most amplifiers can run below that number. I have run plenty of subs at ohm loads well below the recomended rating for the amplifier. All the way down to a .25 ohm load.

            Also, I have never seen a speaker that tested below the rating after it is installed. The amp won't see that low of a load.



            Tony, I don't see in this what the actual problem is? Is the speaker blown?

            Hi Allstar,

            Let me preface this with "my intentions are not to be combative, but to ultimately educate"

            I have to throw the BS Flag on this one, please share with the class the amount of time that your amp lasted at 0.25ohm. and was it for more than a 3 second burp. There are only about 4 amps ever built that could actually sustantain that low of of a resistance. 2 of them are outlawed from the competition arena. but only one could do it for music play, but only 3 of those models were ever sold or produced.

            Also it's not the speaker that you are changing the load on, its the amp. the amp in this scenario is most efficient at 4ohms however claims to be "stable" at 2ohms. Thus meaning that the amp was never intended to sustain a 2 ohm load but capable of running at it.

            As we all know heat kills electronics and for every 30 degree increase in temperature, cuts the life expectency in half. dropping the ohm load below "intended" results in additional heat, which leads to distortion and then the inevitable, failure.

            Please do not confuse "intended" with "capability" these are two completely seperate efficiency factors in regards to longevity.

            Sure in the competition world, we only need it to work for 3 secoonds at a time. In a car like this, it needs to be operation until such time that we wish to upgrade.

            Please ensure that you do your homework prior to putting a system together, never trust the salesman to have your best interests at heart.

            Comment


            • #26
              Hunter, thanks for all the info. It's very informative. The Alpines are installed and sound great. Plus I have a lifetime warranty on the work.

              When the passenger side speaker was pulled, we found that the positive wire connection to the speaker was broken. The installer thinks that at some time, the window must have pulled the wire out.

              Comment


              • #27
                Originally posted by NFR_AP1 View Post
                Hi Allstar,

                Let me preface this with "my intentions are not to be combative, but to ultimately educate"

                I have to throw the BS Flag on this one, please share with the class the amount of time that your amp lasted at 0.25ohm. and was it for more than a 3 second burp. There are only about 4 amps ever built that could actually sustantain that low of of a resistance. 2 of them are outlawed from the competition arena. but only one could do it for music play, but only 3 of those models were ever sold or produced.

                Also it's not the speaker that you are changing the load on, its the amp. the amp in this scenario is most efficient at 4ohms however claims to be "stable" at 2ohms. Thus meaning that the amp was never intended to sustain a 2 ohm load but capable of running at it.

                As we all know heat kills electronics and for every 30 degree increase in temperature, cuts the life expectency in half. dropping the ohm load below "intended" results in additional heat, which leads to distortion and then the inevitable, failure.

                Please do not confuse "intended" with "capability" these are two completely seperate efficiency factors in regards to longevity.

                Sure in the competition world, we only need it to work for 3 secoonds at a time. In a car like this, it needs to be operation until such time that we wish to upgrade.

                Please ensure that you do your homework prior to putting a system together, never trust the salesman to have your best interests at heart.
                American Bass amp, 1ohm stable. 2 subs (1ohm dvc Fi BL wired parallel/parallel) were wired at .25 ohms. amp was fine....did end up having electrical problems in the car alt could not keep up and ended up strapping another amp and running at 1 ohm.

                The point is amps are more than capable of running the stated lowest ohm load without any problems. I have never seen a problem resulting from running the stated lowest stable ohm load and would never think twice about running at the lowest stated ohm load. Yes, I have seen amps go out because of running below the recommended ohm load.

                Not to mention that Tony's amp was putting out 187 rms at 2 ohms which is plenty of power for the "power hungry" kappas so that isn't a problem.

                In the end I was dead on with my diagnosis of Tony's problem. It was not a problem of running too low of an ohm load. You can run 2ohms on that amp all day every day.

                Comment


                • #28
                  Hey guys, thanks for all the info. My problem is resolved. I'm closing the thread now.

                  Again, thanks for all you advice

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X